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A 700-kilometre chain of 80-plus islands ringed with coral fringing reefs, the South Pacific island nation of Vanuatu boasts active volcanoes, lush rain forests and a fascinating array of marine life that includes dugongs, the legendary 'mermaids' of folklore. It is also home to the world's largest accessible shipwreck, the SS President Coolidge.

An artificial reef of gothic proportions, the below-water attractions of the President Coolidge are matched by the top-side comforts of the newly-renovated, Deco Stop Lodge on the main island of Espiritu Santo.

The Deco Stop Lodge

If you are looking for a relaxed stay in the island's capital, Santo, with the added bonus of waking up to a million dollar view then this is the place for you. The Deco Stop is situated on an acre of hillside, overlooking the Segond Canal, just a five minute walk up Winston Churchill Drive. Here you can catch a bird's eye view of what's happening in town and watch the beautiful sunsets every evening at Chardonnay o'clock on the huge open veranda.

The restaurant has been newly renovated, with service second to none making it the best in town. Rose, the head chef, cooks with love and every meal is delicious. A smorgasbord of new tastes and flavors await you as you choose from the extensive menus changed daily, including choice cuts of famous Santo beef complemented by an extensive range of local and imported seafood and the best lobster dishes in town. All fruits and vegetables are hand picked from the local market, local villagers grow and replenish the market daily so, no pesticides here just jam packed full of everything good and tasty.

Accommodation

The newly furnished accommodation at Deco Stop consists of 12 units. Each unit comes equipped with a small fridge, tea and coffee making facilities, fan, insect screening, hot running water, electricity and own private bathroom facilities. There are 6 Twin/Double rooms and 6 "Quad" share rooms. The "Quad" share rooms can be used for one to four guests, with two available as 5-person rooms. These all have the same facilities as the double rooms. All rooms are made up daily with crisp fresh linen and flowers. Clean dive towels and bathroom towels are provided daily. Deco Stop caters for all groups, couples and families.

Every one is treated to a free continental breakfast daily consisting of hot toast cereals and fresh local fruits to start the day. There is also an extensive cooked breakfast menu for those who need a cappuccino and good old bacon and eggs to get the motor running.

Facilities

The Deco Stop Lodge has a fully stocked bar, restaurant, pool, entertainment room with pool table, satellite TV, table tennis, darts, gym, laundry service and - for those who want to download digital camera images and burn them onto a CD - computers and internet connection. There is a

And with a variety of magnificent dive sites close at hand - and transfers to and from the lodge arranged by all local dive operators - guests at the Deco Stop are spoiled for choice. But no visist to Vanuatu would be complete without at least one dive on the SS President Coolidge.

SS President Coolidge

Quite simply the largest and most easily accessible shipwreck in the world, the 'SS President Coolidge', is a former ocean-going passenger liner turned troopship, that fell victim to an 'own goal' in 1942, during the Second World War.

Launched in 1931, the 22,000 ton, 'SS President Coolidge', began life as a luxury passenger cruise liner sailing the Pacific between San Francisco and the Far East. Commandeered into the service of her country as a troopship in early 1942, (like many other ocean going passenger liners of the time), the 'Coolidge' was stripped of her comfortable appointments and fittings and used to transport men and materials to the South Pacific ahead of the advancing Japanese forces.

Relying on a speed of 20 knots to outrun enemy submarines and land his precious cargo safely on Esperitu Santo, the largest of the islands of Vanuatu, Captain Henry Nelson was, on October 26th, 1942, negotiating the 'Coolidge' through the heavily mined second channel when the ship hit two American mines.

In an attempt to save his ship and passengers, the Captain steered the stricken vessel towards - and up onto - the steeply sloping beach. Within an hour most of the cargo had been dumped overboard and 5,500 troops and crew gained the safety of the shore before the 'SS President Coolidge', labouring beneath the weight of inrushing water and gravity, slowly disappeared beneath the surface.

Only two lives were lost, those of a ship's fireman killed in one of the initial explosions

and an army officer who had been instrumental in saving many lives and who had returned to search the sinking vessel in the mistaken belief that men were still trapped below decks.

Only 100-metres or so from the shore, the 200-metre long, 'President Coolidge' has, over the years, slipped down the steep incline on which she came to rest. Lying on her port side, the bow rests in about 20-metres while the stern drops away into 60-plus metres of water.

Regardless of certification level the 'SS President Coolidge' offers divers of every experience something unique and, because of its sheer size, there's always something new to discover.

Like any penetration wreck dive silt-outs are always a possibility and, as a complex structure whose maze of passageways and compartments can defeat the navigational skills of even the most experienced divers, the presence of a dive guide is a mandatory requirement in fully appreciating all that the 'Coolidge' has to offer.

Most of the diving takes place between the bow and the bridge area at a usual depth of no more than 40 metres, although the more atmospheric sections of the wreck are, despite their depth, extremely easy to reach.

And there is plenty to see and marvel at. The Promenade deck is still littered with the refuse of war. Rifles, bayonets, helmets and gas masks, together with uniform clothing rest where they fell more than half-a-century ago. In the spacious holds trucks, jeeps, anti-aircraft guns and shells lie forgotten.

Apart from depth restrictions almost all parts of the wreck are accessible to divers. At the shallower levels the bridge wings still support their two cannons, while deeper into the wreck there's an abundance of plates, utensils and artefacts.

Points of interest are the large turbines, the swimming pool, the barbers chair, the Captains bathroom, the medical supply room and rows of toilet bowls where many a neoprene clad diver has paused to rest and have their picture taken!

The highlight of a dive on the 'SS President Coolidge' is the swim through to the former First-Class Smoking Room of this once luxurious ship. At a depth of just over 40-metres a framed relief figure of a lady wearing costume of the Elizabethan period and posed in front of a unicorn still hangs above the fireplace: A startling treasure that comes to life in the beams of underwater lights.

With quick and easy access from either boat or shore - and more than a dozen different dives in,

over and around the 'Coolidge' - it's possible to overlook the marine life in favour of the wreck's inspirational size. But for divers carrying out their safety stops in the shallows near the wreck (in a coral garden built by legendary diving figure. Allan Power, who has spent more than thirty years exploring the wreck and researching the history of the 'SS President Coolidge'), there's plenty of amusing, colourful and exotic fish life that call the 'Coolidge' home.

Cultural Diversions

Espiritu Santo (meaning home to the spirits of the Saints) is the largest and, in many ways, the most stunning of all of the islands in the magnificent Vanuatu island chain. And with eco-tourism playing a huge role in Vanuatu's appeal, Deco Stop is able to arrange tours to various parts of Santo, including its beaches, blue holes, conservation areas and caves.

During WWII James A Michener, then a lieutenant in the US army, was posted here and was so overwhelmed by the island's beauty that he wrote the legendary Tales of the South Pacific. Today, it's hard to believe that 100,000 allied troops were stationed here during the course of the war!

Through all of this, the villages in Santo have preserved their culture and the traditional way of life has remained strong. Giving visitors a taste of this rich culture, the Maralava Dancers, dressed in their colourful costumes and painted bodies, present a fantastic display of their own tribal dances and explain there complex meaning.

For the best view on Santo, accommodation with a consistent sea breeze on your balcony and

great fun loving staff - as well as the best restaurant in town - the Deco Stop Lodge has it all.

For further information about the Deco Stop Lodge, contact Cathie de Koeyer, e-mail: deco@vanuatu.com.vu or visit the website at: www.decostop.com.vu

Espiritu Santo News Flash!

By Cathie de Koeyer

Allan Powers Dive Tours have uncovered the embossed Port of Registration mounted on the stern of the stern of the President Coolidge beneath the name. Allan Power, manager Tim Gilder and their passionate team of dive guides have been maintaining the ship and big brass lettering that grace the 654'3" long hull of this luxury liner for many years. Following the discovery of the name, the search for the port of registration was prompted by a phone call from avid President Coolidge enthusiast Andy Andrews, who informed us that the port of registration should be situated under the lettering on the stern. This triggered the search and now, for the first time since its sinking, the President Coolidge's Port of Registration can again be seen by divers.

Living in Espiritu Santo since 1969, Allan Power is the acknowledged authority on the President Coolidge. Share his experiences and stories, view his personal collection of artefacts and dive down to meet the famous "Lady" seen by divers all over the world.
For further information contact, Allan Power Dive Tours, E-mail: apower@vanuatu.com.vu or Tel/Fax (678)36822