Nekton

Diving is a potentially hazardous activity. The materials contained within this magazine are for informational purposes only and are not intended as a substitute for proper and appropriate training.

I have always loved PNG and during my years in Dive Travel,   was lucky enough to visit the country many times. These trips were wonderful experiences but only being able to spend just a few days at a time at any one resort, did not quite capture the luxury of being there on holidays.

Papua New Guinea has this wonderful feeling that you cannot find anywhere else in the world. It is one of the most exciting, remote and adventurous places to visit. It is spread out and diverse with the land that you fly over being occupied by people who have 700 different languages and cultures. Below the surface the waters are vivid blue and have some of the best marine life in the world. Above   water,   untouched   and   unexplored mountain ranges, volcanos and   rainforests, wild nature and unknown cultures complete the scene.

The minute you step from your flight, the heat, smells of coconut husks, tropical plants, warm damp earth, colourful   bougainvillea's,

Walindi Plantation Resort, one of the best known dive resorts in the Pacific if not the
world, is known for the abundance of fish and marine life and spectacular, colourful coral reefs. The dive resort is situated on the shores of Kimbe Bay, Northern New Britain, Papua New Guinea.

New   Britain is the largest of Papua New Guinea's   Islands and   Walindi is about an hour's   plane ride   from   Port   Moresby to Hoskins airport in New Britain and then a 45-minute bus ride to the resort.

A chain of   dormant volcanoes forms   the scenic boundaries   of Kimbe Bay, encomp-
assing    hundreds    of    submerged    reefs. Scientists studying the region have already identified more than 900 species of fish and 400 species of corals.

Accommodation is dotted amongst the rainforest style grounds, constructed of local style materials and timber with thatched roofs. They are covered in ferns and are stylish, spacious and comfortable. With en suite bathrooms, tea and coffee making facilities, fridge, fully screened, ceiling fans, desk with power outlets, plenty of bench space for photographers and a free daily laundry service, you have everything required for comfort.

The great thing about Walindi is that it is a small dive resort (total of 24 divers at any one time) and you feel like part of a family, not a guest. Good food, friendly staff, great diving and a relaxed atmosphere provide the perfect dive holiday destination.

Meals are served in the main house area and consist of Western and Asian style buffet, delicious and plentiful, featuring local seafood, fruits and vegetables. There is plenty to choose from and dinner is three courses. Do not expect to lose weight while there.

Meals are served in the main house area and consist of Western and Asian style buffet, delicious and plentiful, featuring local seafood, fruits and vegetables. There is plenty to choose from and dinner is three courses. Do not expect to lose weight while there.

Underwater, Kimbe Bay supports an incredibly diverse marine habitat that few, if any, places in the world can offer. The coral reefs around Walindi are extremely rich and numerous. There are about 25 dive sites varying from five to 75-minutes boat ride away with the sites marked by moorings (where possible) to reduce damage from anchoring. If you were to spend a week there, you would not cover all the dive sites. The reefs are a photographer's paradise: macro or wide-angle, calm waters, pristine colourful corals, a multitude and variety of fish, crustacean and invertebrate life with resident schools of barracuda, tuna and jacks. What more could you ask for? Kimbe Bay offers everything.

reef has a great wall drop-off and one of the best collections of hard and soft corals in the area. Spectacular gorgonian fans adorned with colourful crinoids. Red sea whips, home to a school of razor fish that dart around trying to disguise themselves sideways making them even harder for photographers to see.

If you are lucky you may even find the Long Nosed Hawk fish. My highlight on the reef was a very obliging Crocodile fish and the Spine Cheeked Anemone fish. Invertebrates include sponges, ascidians, bryozoans and a variety of annelid worms such as fan worms and Christmas tree worms. You can spend plenty of time in the shallows doing your surface stop.

Christine's Reef - A 25 minute boat ride away, Christine's Reef is a collection of reefs joined by underwater ridges forming a large horseshoe shape. A photographer's paradise, Christine's features a beautiful collection of large barrel sponges, gorgonian fan corals and red whip gorgonians, along with staghorn and plate corals in the shallower areas. Butterfly fish, Angel fish and Surgeon fish are in abundance here. For macro photographers, look out for Harlequin Ghost Pipefish. To find these types of fish you need to look carefully or go with the fantastic dive guides.

South Emma Reef - A 45 minutes boat ride from the resort, South Emma has it all. It is a bommie with the top in about 12 metres covered in hard and soft corals and sponges. Schools of Barracuda mixed with batfish, trevally circle over the top of the reef and grey whaler sharks patrol the sides. There is a beautiful swim through at about 33 metres with soft corals hanging from the cave walls. A small school of big eye trevally was hanging around the cave entrance. Heading back to the top of the bommie red sea whips and gorgonian fans gently sway in the current. The reef top is alive with small fishes, including many species of butterfly fish, Fire Dartfish, Elegant Firefish, Two tone Dart fish, Twin spot Goby, Scribbled Leatherjacket, Tiger Blenny, Long nose Hawk fish and Spine Cheek Anemone fish.

Restorf Island - 30 minutes ride by boat - and one of my favourites - Restorf Island has an incredible diversity of marine life. It would be possible to spend a week diving here and still find new things. Depth is from the surface, down to 32 m, and this site is excellent for snorkelling between dives. On the main reef there is an abundance of coral growth, especially gorgonian fans and black corals. To the west side of Restorf, the reef slopes downward in a patchwork of loosely connected coral bommies, many serving as anchors for gorgonian fans, sea whips, barrel sponges, and elephant ear

sponges. Among these live many species of smaller reef fish such as long nose hawk fish, gobies numerous invertebrates including nudibranchs, shrimp, feather duster worms and an occasional octopus. On the sandy flats between the island and the reef are large colonies of garden eels, at least four species of shrimp gobies, burrowing gobies and sand anemones and a resident leaf fish. Watch out for the Titan Trigger fish over the sandy areas. It is easy to spend up to two hours in the water here.

Joelle's Reef - A 75-minute boat ride, Joelle's Reef is where you go to see the big fish! It is a small pinnacle/ bommie with the top in about 16 metres covered in hard and soft corals and sponges. Large schooling Barracuda cruise the reef top with trevally, big eyes and bat fish also cruising in. Grey whaler sharks patrol the deeper parts of the bommie. Gorgonian fans and soft corals hang from the pinnacle walls. The top of the pinnacle is alive with small fishes, including many species of butterfly fish, Fire Dart fish, Elegant Fire fish, Two tone Dart fish, Twin spot Goby, Scribbled Leatherjacket, Tiger Blenny and various Anemone fish. This dive is just a supermarket of fish.

On boat rides to or from Walindi - when Dolphins are in the area, you can snorkel with them, by being towed along by the boat. This is great even for snorkellers.

You can dive Kimbe Bay all year round. However, the best season is middle of August to end of December and again between February and May/June. Visibility ranges from 50-80ft, sometimes more, and water temperatures range from 27-30C.

Walindi is not only for divers. If you just want to snorkel, go fishing, guided trekking tours or go bird watching into the rainforests nearby, just ask the staff. Attractions not to miss are the various hot springs with a local style mud bath in the volcanic mountains. On walks through the forests you will also pass by some of the wrecked planes and tanks - grim reminders of WWII. With all these activities to keep you busy plus excellent diving, resort and food, what more could you want besides a cooling swim or a beer at the bar (Gin and Tonic in my case!)

The resort and dive crew are excellent. They always have a smile for you and will help in any way possible. The dive crew are very skilled at finding small creatures in the water and are only too happy to escort photographers and divers.

One very special feature of the trip was a dive with salt-water crocodiles. This was a fantastic experience and can be arranged at certain times through the

resort. We dived with the crocodile off Schumann Island - a 30-minute boat ride away. The island offers some good diving with lots of small life to be found if you look carefully but the highlight was definitely the crocodile.

Helpful Hints:

Airports:   Jackson   International   Airport, Port Moresby
International Airlines: Air Nuigini and Qantas
Entry Regulations: Passport and return ticket. A 30-day   visitor's visa   is   available at Port Moresby airport but you must have Kina in cash to pay for it. If you have a connecting flight it is advisable to obtain your visa before you depart Australia through the PNG Consulate in Canberra.
Health Regulations: Precautions against malaria should be taken.
Currency: The Kina
Electricity: 240 volts A.C., 50 cycles. Plugs are three-pin Australia-style.
Language: English. Pidgen is also widely spoken.
Credit Cards Accepted: International credit cards are   accepted   in   major   resorts, hotels and restaurants.
Communications: Direct dial telephone, fax and email.
Climate: Warm to hot & humid. The rainy season is January to March.
Dress: Informal & casual.
Water: Bottled or boiled.
Tipping: Optional.

Some personal favourite dive sites:

Susan's Reef - 30 minute boat ride.Susan's Reef is probably one of the most photographed reefs at Walindi. It is a submerged ridge connected to a much larger reef by a saddle. The